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Author:  peterm [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:35 am ]
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I just bent a set of Myrtlewood sides and once again I messed up
Instead of using wax paper like I always do to wrap the sides before bending I grabbed a roll of paper from my wife's cooking supply (like I normally do!) and wrapped the sides and proceeded to bend....all went fine as always....UNTIL....I removed the sides from the bender and it was GREEN!!!! how is that possible I asked? Well, it was not wax paper, but some sort of silicone coated parchement paper my wife uses for baking!! It looks exactly the same.... but left a nice green on my side....
Now I'm afraid the sides won't match the color of the back!

Any suggestions?

TIApeterm38796.6961342593
Author:  Brock Poling [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:42 am ]
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Bummer... will it sand off?

You bend your sides wrapped in wax paper? Doesn't that melt the wax on the paper and create a mess?

I have not heard of this before.
Author:  Don Williams [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:46 am ]
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I've always used aluminum foil...never had a problem with staining or anything. Some folks have good luck with parchment paper, but I tried it and didn't like it.

Sorry about the Green....perhaps you want to use this for an Irish Bazouki?

Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:00 am ]
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I wonder if it is the same issue we often have with Koa and Black Acacia?. The heat will turn the resin in the wood a light green at the outer surfaces, giving a green cast to the wood. This sands off. I have not used myrtelwood or CA. Laurel as sometimes called but I would not be surprised if this is the issue. If it is a very light green but not a coating over the wood, but rather a casted tint on the wood. This would be my guess. If so don't panic it will sand just fine.

Oh and if I am correct it would not have mattered if you used craft paper, foil or wax paper. it is the heat reacting with the resin not the paper. About one in three sets of Black Acacia I have bent has done this and maybe 1 in 5 Koa. It is just something about the resin in the wood.
MichaelP38796.7335648148
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:05 am ]
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Peter, could you tell us more about the wax paper, no mess as Brock said?
Author:  MSpencer [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:43 am ]
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Thanks for the info Michael, I was looking at a set of Koa and it's expensive, if it turns a hew of green tint, I won't panic. I am also curious about Wax paper, at 300 -310 I would think it would melt and put a wax coating over the wood, maybe not, look forward to hearing more about it.

Mike
White Oak, Texas
Author:  Dave White [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:47 am ]
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[QUOTE=Don Williams]
Sorry about the Green....perhaps you want to use this for an Irish Bazouki?

[/QUOTE]

An Irish Bouzouki called Myrtle? Fair Play to ya, Don

By the way if you bend using waxed paper does that mean all the hairs come off the sides too?Dave White38796.7421296296
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:57 am ]
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I have never used wax paper. I use craft paper and aluminum foil. I like the foil better after working with the craftpaper a while now. but some wood will react to foil and stain or so I have heard. I have never had any issue except with the acacia i.e. Koa and Black acacia. But that was not the foil because it has happend with craft paper as well. I don't think that the wax paper would burn but would worry with the parifin coating impregnating to the wood. I could see that being a pain to deal with.
Author:  peterm [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:13 am ]
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I have used regular kitchen wax paper on at least 10 sets of sides and always comes out perfect...I use the stuff you buy at the grocery store. Aluminum foil its been knowned to stain certain woods and now I guess parchment paper does the same!

The wax does not melt....instead the steam from the wood keeps it from sticking or staining....IT WORKS GREAT! the only problem is the parchment paper looks the same as wax paper...thus my mistake!
Author:  Philip Perdue [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:21 am ]
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Well you could always follow the same procedure and bake the back in the oven. Your back would then color match your sides. Its not a problem if it is a theme.

Philip
Author:  MSpencer [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 1:52 pm ]
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Thanks Peter, I will have to give this a try

Mike
White Oak, Texas
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 4:28 pm ]
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Yes, thanks Peter, very interesting info, do you use a blanket, bulbs or both with wax paper? ?
Author:  BlueSpirit [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 4:42 pm ]
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Peter,
Let me know if I can help. I carry Myrtlewood and might be able to match your back at a good price. Can't guarantee it though, since Myrtle color is all over the board.
Author:  Cecil [ Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:51 pm ]
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Peter,

As stated above, the green cast is probably just a reaction of the resins in the wood to the heat and will sand off.

What really scares me is that this papaer is SILICONE impregnated. If this was transfered to the wood you may have some serious problems come finish time.

Anyone have any suggestions if this proves to be the case?

Cecil
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:54 am ]
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Cecil, maybe silicone will sand off after all, i hope as you say that someone has an answer on that matter too. Maybe Robbie has it or Michael Payne?Serge Poirier38797.3716666667
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:22 am ]
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Serge, silicone is a nasty critter. It will migrates through a concrete wall (exaggeration ) it is possible to sand out silicone but sometimes it gets to deep. I have heard it will eventually evaporate but I stay way away from it. If there is anything that will cut it and clean it out I am unaware. The real problem with silicone is getting something to adherer over it.MichaelP38797.3909606481
Author:  Alain Desforges [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:37 am ]
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Would shellac stick to sillicone? If that won't then probably nothing will...
Author:  Barry Daniels [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 1:58 am ]
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Mineral spirits and other solvents will remove some of the silicone. A shellac or vinyl wash coat will seal off the wood so your lacquer or whatever finish hopefull won't be affected.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:16 am ]
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depends on the contamination. some say clean with minerial spirits and seal with shellac works. but I can't say as I have avoided it like the pleage
Author:  Graham Steward [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:23 am ]
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Maybe you could bake your back set with the same paper around it so it has the same green look?
Author:  peterm [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:48 am ]
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I'll try to sand it off and hopefully it works....as of right now I am getting ready to glue on the kerfing, then I will close the box....if the green hue does not sand of completely I'll donate the box for someone's project guitar .

I use wax paper and a heating blanket on my sides. personally I like wax paper better than craft paper because the wax help hold in more moisture.
Author:  Serge Poirier [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:40 am ]
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Good point there Peter, do you have spring steel slats also or just the blanket over wax paper and wood ?
Author:  peterm [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:44 am ]
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Serge, I do one steel slat, the wood in wax paper, another slat and then the heating blanket on top.

Author:  Serge Poirier [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:57 am ]
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Thanks a million Peter, one more last question on this if you don't mind, not to hi-jack this thread but how thin are your slats please? The reason i'm asking is that the last slat on top of the wood probably has to be very thin to well transfer the heat?
Author:  peterm [ Tue Mar 21, 2006 10:04 am ]
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Serge, it does not matter how thin the slat is any slat thin enough to use in a bender will work. Remember....metal is an excellent conductor, so the heat will go through pretty much any size. The only difference is the thicker the slat the longer it will retain the heat!
I got my slats from John Hall at Blues Creek a while back....sorry can't remember the exact thickness!
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